Bra Making pt 2

Here is the long awaited update to Bra Making pt 1, it doesn’t take that long to finish once you get onto the elastic.

My kit came with two different widths of picot elastic luckily I picked the right one, the slightly wider one goes along the bottom band the other one along the outside of the straps.

Each bit of elastic has two rows of Zigzag stitching, the  first row is to switch it to the front of the bra band then you flip it up on the back and do the other row, the first one is normal zigzag the second is the three stitch zigzag.

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The elastic is only pulled tight across the bottom of each cup, and you cut the bridge fabric so that you can stitch that straight.

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You do much the same thing for the top of the band and up the strap, the only bit that need pulling is the side of the cup.

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The neckline trim doesn’t have to be elastic but the stuff in my kit was, and to be honest not my cup of tea once it was installed, it was a bit too big.

Once the bottom band has been completed, but before the strap elastic is fitted you check the band for size against the hook and eye band, trim off any excess on the band. You fit the hardware to the back strap then attach that to the back of the bra, and attach the bra strap to the the elastic back.

attach the hooks and eyes then you have a finished bra.

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before you finish off the channelling for the underwires you try it on for fit.

The cup fit was pretty good, it was slightly tight along the top cup edge and the bottom band was also a bit tight, I was thinking of going up a band size but after asking the class instructor she suggested adding 1/2 to 1 inch to the back band piece and adding a wedge to the top edge of the upper cup.

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So I’m going to try it and see how these alteration affect the fit.

If you are thinking of taking the Beverly Johnson class I would recommend it, I would also recommend getting her pattern and the kit that goes with it, I have enough fabric for about four bras, I will need to get extra elastic and findings. There are two reasons for saying this, if you take her other classes this is the bra pattern Beverly shows you how to alter and also I bought another kit from eBay and the main cup fabric is horrible and I think the the lace is unsuitable for bra making as it is slightly directional (one way) it is as if they have got a list of things needed for the process but have the necessary knowledge to select the right stuff. If I hadn’t bought the other kit I wouldn’t have known any better and probably not finished the bra.

I bought my official kit from b’ware they are Swedish website which accepts PayPal as well as credit cards the kit arrived very quickly.

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Posted on 15/12/2016, in dress making, Underwear and tagged . Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.

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