Category Archives: Indie Patterns

Love Notions – Rhapsody Blouse

I have had a couple of failures the last month or so, you will have seen the Lutterloh dress and this one which is the Rhapsody Blouse from LoveNotions, I had high hopes of this pattern, I have a similar top and I was hoping to reproduce it.

https://www.lovenotions.com/product/rhapsody-blouse-xs-xxxl, it has 8 sleeve types, I’m very impressed with the website, the pattern pages also have lots of pictures of how it looks made up, I am quite sure that my issue is more to do with fabric choices rather than a problem with the pattern.

I loved the look of the top right up until I attached the sleeves and then it was uck I don’t like you at all.

IMG_4855IMG_4857

IMG_4856

IMG_4863

I am going to give it a good iron before making any decisions on it, I could just take the sleeves off and have it sleeveless or I could just replace them with the ‘cap’ sleeve as the arm hole is slightly bigger for the sleeved version than the no sleeved version.

It has French seams and gathers at the shoulder and a tuck at the back, last time I tried it on I realised that I probably should have made the larger size it doesn’t quite fit on the shoulders, but I am happy enough with the rest of it.

I will be making another attempt at this probably with softer fabric with more drape….

Cheyenne Tunic ….. Update

I’ve decided on the buttons, first of all I found some buttons in my stash, then I realised that they would be far too big and bulky for the sleeve tabs. So then I went to my trusty eBay and was looking at some of the wooden buttons, I couldn’t decide then I thought mother of pearl – or what ever the fake equivalent is these days.

They arrived just as I was about to start the Dress For Liz so I put off stitching them on, but they are on now – what do you think?

Birkin flares no. 3

Hi, I’m on my third pair of Birken Flares, I still love the pattern and they are so comfortable, the first pair I made from a cheap 10oz Denim from eBay this is quite a light weight but it holds it’s shape over multiple wears. I bought the black, it has faded to a charcoal grey but for the price, fantastic. The second pair is a heavier weight denim and better quality, I thought but after 2 wears max has to go back in the wash.

This pair (third) I went back to my trusty man on eBay and bought the dark blue denim he had advertised with the black. I bought 3 meters out of which I cut two pairs of jeans and my skirt blogged about here so far I have only had time to put one pair together, I was stitching them at the same time but with different coloured top stitching, once I started confusing my self I decided against it.

This pair has yellow top stitching and came together pretty quickly, I did have a problem with the fly top stitching and the crotch but otherwise it went together with no problems, I do have one confession to make though I still haven’t tried rivets yet, I’m quite happy banging in the one button and yanking the extra teeth off the zip, but to be honest the rivets scare my some what. Maybe next time.

Hey June – Cheyenne Tunic

Hi, I picked this pattern because of it’s similarity to a couple of Fatface Popovers I bought in the winter sale and also, while researching the Birkin flares I came across several really beautiful versions of the pattern.

I made the tunic with 3/4 sleeves, it went together quite easily and the instructions were very, very detailed, they hold your hand through the whole stitching experience.

you make the tab first

imageimage

Then you make up the back, using what I assume is the Taco method for the yoke

image

image

there are a couple of nice details on it, the cuffs for instance are surprisingly easy to put together and look very professional,

imageimage

the whole thing has french seams even the arm holes, the shirt is put together flat then the side seam and underarm seem is sewn last.

image

The one thing that I’m not sure I agree with is the hem is stitched separately on the back and front then the side seams are done

image

If I was to make it again there are a couple of things that I would change, the  front tab reaches my belly button definitely not sure about that, also the the tab on my Fatface shirts are thinner which I think I prefer.

I’m not sure if the fabric I used is slightly too stiff though I thought it was a light weight Lawn. the back doesn’t seem to lay properly but I think I might wash the fabric again before looking into this issue.

imageimage

The reason this is not finished is because I can’t decide on the buttons, any suggestions?

Second Davie Dress – The Return

Hi, I was so impressed with the fit of my first Davie Dress that I have made another one, this one is in a stretch fabric bought from eBay it is thickish, and will be great for our holiday. It does have quite a big pattern on it and I was torn between thinking it was too big for the small panels, or because it was so big it wouldn’t matter. It turns out I was right the pattern is so big that it is not noticable on the dress.

image
I have made it in the shorter size, a straight 2 but I have changed the neckline. The problem I have with the neckline is it is a bit high and with having to take off an extra 1/4 inch off the shoulders makes it even higher.

So what I did was I made up the dress with a slightly lower neckline, this was still not low enough, so I put the dress on my dress form then put a t-shirt with the neckline I was going for over the top of it, then I drew it on the dress.


After I cut off the excess I had then had to decide how to finish it off. Too be honest I didn’t look at the instructions on the pattern at this point, and I didn’t when I made the first one. The Craftsy class I took had you fold the neck strip in half, stitch it to the neck line and topstitch it in place, I didn’t like the mess it left inside so I decided to do it a different way.

I measured the new neckline and took an inch off it then added the seam allowance, made it into a loop, trimmed the seam allowance and pinned it to the neckline, right side of the neckband to the wrong side of the dress, stretching it out slightly, as I had done in the Craftsy class. Then I stitched the neck band to the dress, timmed off half the seam allowance and folded it over to the front of the dress, and then folded it under on its self so that the neck edge was encased in the neckband, I then topstitched this round, it gives it a nice neat edge and I am thinking of undoing the previous Davie dress and changing the neckline on that.

  
There might be another Davie Dress on the horizon but I haven’t decided yet, I’ve just found out about the Deer&Doe free t-shirt pattern that can be made into a dress or the Anna top with a gathered skirt, this Florida holiday will be the year of the T-shirt dress if I’m not careful.

Back soon

Anna Dresses BHL

Here is the promised post on my Anna dresses, neither are completely finished but both are beautiful in their own way.

The first one is a viscose (rayon) which is very slippery and after the last time I worked with viscose I swore I would never do so again, but this was cheap and pretty…..

Those by Hand London girls sure draft for some very tall Ladies, I loped 7 inches off the skirt before I even started. The other changes I made was to do a small bust adjustment and to bring the neckline up an inch, I tend to find that deep V necklines do nothing for me and they gape something terrible.

I did French  seams on the skirt and overlocked the top mainly because I wan’t 100% on french seaming the underarm.

image

It still needs ironing and hemming, over all I’m quite pleased with it. I will admit though I wimped out on the thigh high split.

I used a small bit of interfacing where the zip is, not my idea I read it somewhere when I was researching the Anna Dress.

image

The Second Anna is made out of a Robert Kauffman London Calling Lawn fabric, I bought in the Craftsy fabric sale before christmas, It is very nice and light and floaty.

imageimage

 

here are the full length photos.image

image

 

Birkin Jeans – Baste and Gather

Hi, I’m having a busy year so far, I’ve made a lot of things but not finished them, if you read this blog I think that you will find this is a recurring theme, However I do have something to show you that is finished.

My first pair of Jeans, and they look lovely, I cheated top-stitching wise, my fabric is Black and so is my top-stitching but never fear I’ve started on a new pair which are dark blue with red top stitching, a photo at the end of this post.

I do have two sewing machines which make assembling this pattern a lot easier, my usual machine is set up with the normal thread and my older machine with the Top-stitching thread.

image

I bought the fabric from eBay, it was the cheapest 10 oz denim I could find, when it arrived, I wasn’t too sure about it, it was quite stiff, but after washing it, the fabric softened up a lot.

This is the first PDF pattern that I have downloaded that you can pick which sizes to download, this is genius everyone should do it. It makes it easier to to grade between sizes and you don’t get all the confusing bits where all sizes congregate in one spot. I printed 26 and 27, in the end I just made a straight 26, I took 3 1/2 inches out of the length, looking at the sizes I should have taken out 4 inches but I’d rather they were too long after the next wash than too short. With shop bought jeans I sometimes find they keep shrinking into the second and third washes.

The instructions were brilliant and I would say that as long as you know your way round a sewing machine, you should have no trouble making a pair of jeans whatever your skill level.

The back goes together first, I put a couple of lines of stitching on the back pocket, just to give it that ‘authentic’ jeans feel

image

The fabric is a lot blacker than it looks here, but at least the highlights are showing off the stitching.

after this you start working on the fly, I would say that the instructions for this is better than the instructions for the Sewaholic Thurlows, but it does use a lot more photos.

imageimage

one thing this fabric does do is attract the cat hair :-(, here are some photos of the front made up.

imageimageimage

I am very pleased at how they have turned out, the only bit I am slightly disappointed in myself is that there is a tiny bit of pocket lining showing on the curve of the pockets, but that’s what a black sharpie is for.

As promised a shot of the pair I am working on now.

image

I decided against patterning the pocket as I thought it might be too much red, but now I sort of wished I had.

I used a different foot for the top-stitching the first one was done with a 1/4 inch quilting foot the second pair of jeans I decided to use the stitch guide foot, which I’m finding a lot more accurate.

bye for now…

 

2016 is shaping up to be the year of the indie pattern

Usually I stick with the big four, well actually two, Butterick and Vogue I have occasionally gone to Newlook, to be honest I’m a bit confused as to why they are called the big four as they all appear to be now owned by McCalls but who am I to question why.

This year I’m going Indie, I already have By Hand Londons Anna Dress, Pinup Girls Bra pattern and what seems to be half of Sewaholics pattern line – Davie Dress, Gabriola skirt, Cambie dress, Thurlow Trousers, Hollyburn Skirt, Belcarra Blouse and Granville Shirt. I have added the Birkin Jeans from Baste and Gather and two patterns from Hey June Handmade, Cheyenne tunic and Lane Raglan.

I have always fancied making Jeans but the pattern that seems to be most talked about is the Ginger Jeans, to be honest I haven’t worn Skinny Jeans since the last time they were in, and mostly I remember not being very comfortable especially while sitting down, I know they have bought out a bootcut addon pack but I still find them a bit meh. The Birkin Flares however I love, love all the photos I’ve seen of them and all the reviews seem very favourable.

Of course while I was checking up on the Jeans I came across the Cheyenne Tunic, which is quite close in style to the FatFace Popovers I’ve been buying (in the sale) so I thought why not. I have some very nice stash fabric I can use for it hopefully before I go to Olympia 4th March. I need to stash bust pretty darned quick 🙂

imageimageimageimageimageimageimageimage

 

 

 

Sewaholic Davie dress

Hi, since my brief look at knit fabrics I have been looking to complete Sewaholics Davie Dress, when I ordered it I hadn’t realised that it was made in a stretch fabric, but I was willing to give it a go. I had some fabric bought from eBay that I wasn’t all that keen on once I had it delivered so it was ideal for my test run.

My first problem is that I’m not a pear shape which is the shape that Sewaholic favours, at 33 27 37 I was alright for waist and bust with a US 6 but my hips are a US 2, what I have done before in this position is just cut a straight US 6 but I have ended up with too much fabric at the hip and it has looked just plain wrong, so I decide to grade down from the waist to the hip size, I used my new hip curve and was very happy with the results.

I did a quick pin to my dress form and it looked alright

image
My second problem is that I’m short 5ft 2in and I do usually have a problem with princess seam but I’ll cover that a bit later.

Who wants to see the first attempt at the dress.

imageimageimage

I would like to say it looks a lot better on the dress form than it did on me and also by this point I had already raised the shoulder seams about an inch. The dress was just too big all over, except on the hip, the other problem was that without raising the shoulder seam by an inch the bust part of the princess seam was way too low, and even with the inch taken out it still wasn’t sitting properly.

Because of the amount of excess I had at the waist and bust I decided to try a straight size 2, after all there are 8 seams so I could quite happily ‘steal’ back 2 inches from the seam allowance. Also by going for a size 2 you already lost 3/4 inch from the shoulder.

image

What I didn’t realise was how rollyupy the already cut pieces were going to be and ironing them didn’t help 😦 however what I did find was that if I laid it on the ironing board it stuck to the cover like fuzzy felt, I managed to keep it flat enough to cut the new pieces out.

The dress went together very nicely, I used a normal straight stitch as this was only a test dress, zigzag is so hard to unpick, also I don’t like the way it looks on the outside. I might just use my overlocker in future.

Here is the dress with the basic seams put in it fits loads better.

imageimage

There is something squiffy going on with the back, but I’m not sure if it is how I standing, the shoulder seam could do with coming up slightly which will might fix this and will bring the bust point of the dress up to the correct position.

I made the longer length which comes just below my knees, I’m not sure if the shorter one might be just out of my comfort zone.

I’ll be back with the finished article soon, also I like the fabric made up a lot more than just laying in the drawer so this might by my first dress for Florida.

It is a medium weight stretch fabric with a nice amount of body, I used my walking foot which is brilliant and my sewing machine didn’t try to eat it once, bonus!

Also on my cutting table is By Hand London Anna dress, more about that soon.

Thurlow Trousers part 2

I cut out and put together my second pair of Thurlow Trousers  before Christmas, the reason I haven’t blogged about them it that I made a bit of a hash of the back pockets, and I was sulking. There were a couple of other issues with them as well but that was the main one.

I cut too far on the pocket slit, I’ve done bound buttonholes before so I had no excuse. The welts lie very nicely unfortunately I have a bit of fraying at the corners.

image

Since I started this post I have actually completed two pairs of Thurlow Trousers and apart from the welt pockets on the first pair I am quite pleased with them. I stitched further in on the welt pocket sides so now instead of the fraying I have a bit of puckering, as I am never going to use the pockets I have also stitched them up.

The first pair I added 1/4 inch to the front rise, as it seemed to slope down from the back and was quite away from my belly button, the second pair I added in total 1/2 inch I was much happier with the result, oddly enough I had more problems following the instructions for the last two pair of trousers than I did with the ‘muslin’ I think I did too much second guessing.

Here are pictures of the first pair


And pictures of the second pair


I think that they could do with being a smige longer but other wise I’m happy.