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Lutterloh the verdict

Now this hasn’t been a complete success, but it also hasn’t been a complete failure. The fit was good, unfortunately the choice of pattern was a bit ambitious.

I managed to get the front lying better in the second version than the first version, probably if I made the dress a few more times I would get the stitching right.

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I can’t get the front to line up properly, the two fronts curve up under the bust, one side following back down the other, just in case you think it’s because, it’s too small across the chest, it didn’t matter what I did even just laying it on the bed with nothing in it it wouldn’t lay properly.

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As you can see the back looks good, I think I probably should have taken an inch out of the skirt length as it is laying a bit low across the hips.

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I might fiddle with the bodice size as I didn’t have much movement in the shoulder area, but for once I wasn’t swimming in fabric under the arms and across the bust.

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This picture shows the hip problem quite well.

The verdict is that I will make more dresses from the system, but will be more careful in my pattern choices. I was very impressed at how easily it was to create the pattern, practice will make the curves (sleeve head) better and I have noticed that the later the pattern the more information you are given for making up the garments.

Lutterloh

since getting back into sewing last year, I have been hearing whispers about Lutterloh pattern books, what I read was quite interesting, I found a couple of books to download, which i found quite fascinating, how you take this iddy bitty patterns and make full sized clothes from them,
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then a couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to win on ebay my very own pattern book, I’m not sure which year it is, late 1940s early 1950s completed with measuring tape and pattern ruler, it looked untouched.
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now a lot of the things I read about the system suggests you should work on a vest (waistcoat) pattern until you get the fit right then you will be ready to try a proper pattern, where is the fun in that?

I picked a dress, from my scanned book, no particular reason it just caught my eye. looked sort of easy two skirt pieces two bodice pieces and a sleeve.
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To be fair it was easy, I created my pattern pieces I cut them out on an old sheet, then there was the hard bit. the bodice comes to a point on the center front, the center back point was easy, but at the moment I have a weird I’m not laying down properly lump where the bodice is attached to the skirt. Then there is the sleeves, I was under the impression that they marked the back of the sleeve with an ‘A’ shape I have this symbol on the the other pieces just not the sleeve, it shouldn’t be too hard to work out but even so….

This is what my dress looks like so far

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With the best will in the world I don’t think anything will make the skirt look like the pattern, cutting it on the bias might help but there just isn’t the material to get that kind of drape. I am quite happy with it so far though.

Craftsy

I’ve just discovered Craftsy, yes I hear you say you’re a bit late to the party, may be I am, I’ve done CBTs( computer based training) for work and although James was very amusing, the person who did XP workstation had very grating voice and I wanted to kill myself. (probably a slight exageration)

But Craftsy, maybe that won’t be too bad, so far I’ve signed up for five classes, I’ve watched one of them while my shoulder was too bad to do anything, it is pattern making basics the bodice sloper making course, it looks quite straight forward, obviously I haven’t tried anything yet but I now have the ruler and the paper, I keep forgetting to buy the sticky dots though 😦 I’m hoping mine comes out better than some of the photos.

I also have the sassy librarian blouse, the knit lab, the couture dress and the flirty day dress. I will confess I bought four of them half price, and I have targeted the ones that I think will help me with my dress making skills, apart from the knit lab which is going to help me with my knitting skills, all I have to do now is tidy up my craft room and make time to sit down and follow them.

I have my flirty day dress pattern but I feel that I might get more out of it once I have completed the bodice sloper course, I have just read on a blog that the flirty day dress is a B cup pattern so I assume that I will have to make some alterations there.

Dress Making

My Shoulder still isn’t quite up to long hours of dress making but I do hope to have a couple of skirts for you to look at soon.

Butterick 6622

Slim skirt needs only one yard 54″ fabric-sews in a Jiffy. Skirt has single back seam, deep inverted pleat, back slide fastener closing. Make the skirt with soft unpressed pleats(A), or darts (B) under lining the waistband.

I’ve made version (B) in this one
Butterick 7915
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Slim Skirt in three versions. Views (A) & (C) can be made from 1 yard of 54″ fabric. (A) Mock wrap-around version buttons at side back. (B) Double-buttoned, floating panel is back. (C) Back slit.

Version (A) for this one

vogue 8782

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this is a vogue dress, I made it in a size smaller than usual, partly because the pattern I bought was a size smaller, but mostly because I have been finding that a lot of these dresses have been large around the bust area and it is easy enough to add two inches at the waist rather than do a small bust adjustment.

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the sizing has come out quite well, apart from being a bit tight around the front of the arms, on the bright side it might just make me stand up straight and stop slouching.

IMG_3137 as you can see it has a pleat at the back and three at the front.

as you can see in the top photo it has some fancy detail instead of the normal darts, you stitch in the diamond shape first the fold it over to create the cut out.

purchases this week

I have bought some fabric this week, I had an email from Kaye’s Textiles this week saying that they had some new cotton fabric and it will be on sale for a week.

The fabric i bought in the end was not on sale and i had already see it but here it is

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i also have a few new patterns

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i’m not sure which one i’m going to make first but it will probably be the last one, Vogue 8781, as you can see I am on a bit of a Vogue kick at the moment but I am trying to cut down on my spending but it doesn’t appear to be happening.

I’m hoping this week to have my rose border print dress finished and the dress with the shoulder pleats so watch this space.

border print dress

I though you might like to see some photos of my border print dress, the pattern I’m using is the Vogue 9040 pattern, I have taken about half an inch from each side under the arm

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in this photo if you look carefully you can see all the markings used to make the photo above

if you think there are too many dots for the pin tucks, that’s because you put in the darts first then the pin tucks using half of the of the dart markings.

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here’s roughly what it will look like, I am going to use pink buttons and part of the border print for the belt

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I’m going to try to do a slightly more in depth post on this dress.

Pattern envelope

Pattern envelope

If you look closely at the pattern you should just be able to make out the pattern detail on the shoulders and hip. I thought that the print might have been a bit mistake but from a distance it isn’t too bad. It is just as well it is so busy as I folded the fabric in half which meant that some of the pattern ended up upside down.

The first photo is the front pieces, you need to enforce the front with two sets of stitching round what will become the slash point which you can’t see on this photo, but what you can see is the placket which is used to reinforce what will become a seam.

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You then slash up to the dot.

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Fold the placket up, then put in the pleats

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stitch the placket over the top of the pleats using topstitching, unfortunately the top stitching hasn’t come out well in this photo.
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roughly the same process is copied for the front of the skirt.

Border pattern dresses

I’ve just bought some fabric with a large border pattern
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I’m hoping to have bought enough fabric to make vogue 9040 with it so I can get a look similar to this
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Fabric from ebay, dress photo from etsy.

vogue 9040 part 2

here we have another finish red and white dress, this is the first dress that i have made that looks like the actual picture on the envelope.

Vogue 9040

I also thought that as the sun was shining I would take the photos outside, of course by the time i had put the dress on and moved the camera downstairs the sun had gone in. Also my shoes weren’t quite up to the muddy grass either.

This is the first vogue dress pattern i had put together and i was surprise at how easy it went together. I wasn’t sure about the buttons but seeing them on now i’m quite happy with them.

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Here’s a not such a good shot but it has the shoes in it.

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i’ll definitely be making this dress again.