Category Archives: vintage dress making
Biba – An Exhibition part 2
Here is the second part of the post about the Biba Exhibition, this might confuse people not from Southend but the second hale is housed in the original ‘old’ library which is the museum.

The part housed in the museum was housewares and makeup, Biba apparently had a finger in all pies, as far as I can work out they were eventually housed in a very large department store in London.
while I was looking at the dresses a lady was in there with me she was very nostalgic while looking at all the merchandise, and informed me that at home she probably had more at home than was included in the exhibition, she remembered fondly that the price of the bus fare was probably more than she and her friends bought in the shops, the makeup was very cheap.





you must admit the eyeshadow sets do look fabulous….

The also sold household from matches to dinner services all with the black and gold motif



there were these really great art deco signs


and here is the ending plaque

One of the ladies in the Museum said that she thought it was one of the best exhibitions that had been put on there and I think she was right, she also mentioned that it all came from one mans collection.
if you have any great memories of Biba I would love you to share them in the comments.
Biba an Exhibition
Hi, now I will confess I hadn’t heard of Biba, I think it is probably because of my age, I would have been 7 when it closed 1975. My local museum and the Beecroft gallery have been showing an exhibition since the middle of this year and it is going on until 14 January.
Biba was a Fashion brand that originally ran from 1964 – 1975 there has been a couple attempts to revive the brand since then which don’t appear to have been successfull the latest being House of Fraser
The Beecroft Gallery which is now housed in the old Library has a small display of clothes, this is going to be a very picture heavy post, the photos aren’t that good, they were taken on my phone with no flash so there is quite a lot of reflections going on.









There were a lot of boards up with little pieces of information on the the brand.



I’ll have the next half tomorrow….
Simplicity 8833 pt 2

hi, this should have been posted Sunday but had camera malfunction, i forgot to charge the spare battery oops.
I was so impressed with this, that I actually finished it, no, I hear you say that never happens 🙂
apart from adding the sleeves, I also added a couple of long fisheye darts to give the front a bit of shape, it totally changed the look of the dress from ‘meh sack’ to ‘ooh not quite sack’.
Here are some pictures of me wearing it, another rare sight…..





When I make it again, I think I will remove an inch from the back and front, I might have to add some of that back at the hips, but it is definitely too big across the top half.
Looking at these pictures I might need to increase the back waist shaping as well, the arm sync also needs raising, I run the risk of cutting myself in half with the shorts every time I lift my arms.
More soon
Fares no 4 UFO no.2
I’ve finally finished my fourth pair of Birkin Flares, I cut this pair our the same time as the last pair which were finished and taken on holiday with me back in May.
There were no surprises in the making of theses, however there was a surprise when I put them on.
Considering they were cut out the same time as the last pair from the same fabric, they feel completely different. I’m not sure why, they feel softer and some what roomier.
I decided to go with the red top-stitching which I think looks really good, on this pair I decided to decorate the pocket which I have decided that I prefer.
As the previous pair seems to have shrunk some what, I decide to put a teeny tiny hem on them, I do like my trousers to practically drag along the floor. At the moment they are doing fine but I’m not sure how long they will stay long so the next pair that I make will probably be cut longer still.
Bye for now…..
Simplicity 8833
Hi, I didn’t mean to have a month off blogging, it just happened, to tell the truth i haven’t done anything much since the last post, but here is a brand new stitch, this is in the muslin phase and not what I was expecting when I made it.

Simplicity 8833 is classed as a mini-pant dress, I suppose what it is, is a playsuit with two skirt flaps, I managed to get hold of a pattern in my size, I shortened the top by and inch and the skirt/short pieces by an inch, I think I should have shortened the top by another 1/2 inch.
The top half of the dress would be good just as a simple summer top to wear with jeans or shorts.

The major issue I have with this dress is the ease in the top half and the fact you have to take it off to go to the toilet, also these ‘minis’ never turn out as short as they look on the packet, even allowing for at the fact I’m just over 5 ft 2 inches.
This pattern goes together very easily, you stitch the top together, then you stitch the front shorts together and attach them to the front skirt flap and do the same with the back, attach the front to the back then sew the whole thing to the top.




As this is just a test run I haven’t done all the finishing off or attaching the sleeves.
I love the idea of this ‘dress’ I can have it short without the risk of showing everyone my knickers, but the practicalities might just outweigh that peace of mind.
This is the first time I’ve used the trouser part of my dress makers dummy, it is quite a faff because the support post goes up inside one of the leg parts, you have to straighten the stand, feed it through the leg hole on the garment, then put the stand back into the outwards/support position.
sorry for the state of the photos, but I was worried if I took the time to tidy up and get my camera sorted out I might lose the posting momentum…..
New York, New York
I’ve just got back from a trip to New York, which is why I’m a bit late in posting, withe Florida I had time to sit back in the evening and take total advantage of the free WiFi, so I could post as I went along, the WiFi in our hotel was a bit slow and not free!!
We flew out of Heathrow, the Premium economy isn’t as good for New York as for Florida, I assume it is something to do with the size aeroplane, it seemed smaller and more cramped. we were driven over to Manhattan in a cab with the smallest amount of legroom ever.
I should have taken some photos on the way over but I had left my camera in my carry on, which was in the boot of the car. This is my 4th/5th trip out and I always smile on seeing the ‘spaceships’ from Men in Black (1965 worlds fair observation decks)
We stayed in a hotel near Central park and we had a few things that we had listed to do. Number one was go and get pizza at Angelos, which we did on the first day and fourth and fifth days.
day 1, it was raining, usually when we go to New York it is dry and sunny for most of the holiday and rains on the last day, this year it was the other way way round. It was forecast to rain the whole time we were out there but we were lucky it just rained on the Friday.
We walked down over to Macy’s, stopping at Gap on the way, Simon likes their Jeans. Because of the poor exchange rate and the fact we had already spent quite a bit of money earlier in the year, we weren’t planning on spending too much.


I did however go to Mood fabrics, wow!! I have never seen so much fabric in one place, it is on 3 floors and the fabric is floor to ceiling, there are a lot of staff, so you find the fabric you want and they cut it for you and price it up as you go along, then once you are finished you take your ‘pile’ of fabric to the front desk on the 3rd floor and they tot it up and Simon hands over his credit card, obviously he wouldn’t do that for just any one, only me. 🙂 that trip I bought some denim and a piece of silk crepe, I did have something in mind for each bit I bought.



For dinner that day we went to Red Lobster, we had discovered a liking for crab legs while in Florida and Simon found a Red Lobster just off Times Square, yippee!!
More later….
Sad News
I debated about not doing this post, and to be honest I’m not one of those, ‘lets put all our feelings out on the internet’ type of girl, but Denise has been such a big part of my life in recent years and we have known each other for over 20 years.
Last Sunday, Denise, my sewing buddy for the last three years and before that my card-making buddy, and before that my very dear friend lost her fight with Cancer. Denise had suffered with ill health her entire life.
She had to give up work in 2006 due to pulmonary hypertension, and had a very successful Liver transplant the following year. Three years ago she was diagnosed and beat cervical Cancer, earlier this year they found another growth this time by her lungs, she was told this was a totally unrelated Cancer to the first. After treatment for this they found another lump, which was hiding behind the other one.
Feeling better but unable to walk far, we made our plans, Denise had wanted to go to the Knitting and stitching show at Olympia this year but had been feeling too unwell to go, so I checked with Cooks Coachs and we could go to Alexandra Palace in October, we would take her wheelchair and Denise announced this meant we could buy more ‘stuff’ because we could hang it on the chair and not have to carry it.
In and out of hospital over the summer with pneumonia, she was still looking forward to our trip in October, then while on holiday in August she lost the use of her legs, they found another tumour, this one pressing on her spine, she then spent a couple of weeks waiting to be transferred back to Southend from Chichester.
Once back in Southend, I visited, the trip wasn’t mentioned, I think we both knew it wasn’t going to happen. she was in a lot of pain but still showing a brave face now talking about plans for having a real Christmas tree set up on her decking, Denise loved Christmas practically the whole of December her house was an obstacle course of Christmas Trees, I’m sure last year there was at least 5 and that was just downstairs.
13th September I bought her some books and we talked Lynsay Sands and Argeneau Vampires, she was having difficulty concentrating she said, so wanted something not too brain tiring, she was also worrying that she wouldn’t get home to see her cat Poppy again. I arranged to come back to following week.
The following day she text to say they were sending her home, but she wasn’t happy about it as the Respite Team had said maybe the following week. The Hospital changed their mind, when I asked the following day if she had gone home, she was still in the Hospital.
She passed away on Sunday, she had fought so hard and overcome so much that I suppose I thought she would come back from this, that she was indestructible.
The beginning of the year she had so many plans, we had so many dressmaking plans, we were going to complete some fitting classes on Craftsy, she had just found the Swallow fabric that she had been hunting for, and we were going to dress up for the Knitting and Stitching Show – Big Vintage Sewalong.
Denise had a large circle of friends, a passion for life, Star Wars, Harrison Ford (not sure if those two are related :-)) and she was always making plans, doing something, going somewhere, she wouldn’t have been happy being bed-bound, but she would have got on with it, she would have been there with a smile and a positive attitude, and I would have been there trying to keep her amused and maybe make her laugh.
Good bye Denise I will miss you.
Gerties Ultimate Dress Book


I have a new dress to show you, I made it from Gerties Ultimate Dress Book, If you remember when I made the Dress for Liz I had a problem with the waist, well it turns out it wasn’t all me not cutting the dress on the fold, there is something completely out with the sizing.
The first bodice I made was size four going to size six, I did a small bust adjustment, but instead of taking all the fabric out of the side dart I decided to take half out of the waist dart. These darts are huge to start out so I thought it would be best. It was too small in the chest and in the waist, I measured myself again, the waist size should be fine if anything it should be too big, I have a 27 inch waist and the pattern was supposedly for 28 inch, at this point I thought I had miscalculated when redrawing the waist dart,


my second attempt was a straight size 6 SBA this time I took all the fabric from the side dart. I made a second muslin it was a bit tight, but it got done up I didn’t think any more of it.

I made the changes to the bodice pieces as per one of the posts on Gertie’s blog, cut into my fabric and made up the dress. It went together really easy, I basted the zip in tried it on and couldn’t get the zip done up. 😦 miles too tight I took the sideseams apart and used a 3/8 seam allowance a bit better but I still couldn’t breath or sit down once it was done up, then I did what I should have done in the beginning, I measured the pieces, they added up to 26inches, the waist on my supposed 28 inch waist pattern was 2 inches out and that was without ease what was going on here, so then I got the pattern sheet out and measured that and sure enough that was also out 2 inches.
I didn’t have enough fabric to re-cut the bodice pieces so I had to steal the extra out of the 4 waist darts, I can now get the dress done up and move about in it, I do need to revisit the alteration to the side seams as one side appears to be a bit wonky but other than that the dress went together very nicely.

I had read on the internet that the midriff piece was wrong, but it looks like it could be affecting all the waist sizing. I had already been slightly concerned because the skirt didn’t seem particularly long, I’m 5ft 2″ (and a bit) it come to just below my knees and the bodice didn’t need shortening, though I did take about 1/2 inch out of it in the end.
I am concerned though that the publisher hadn’t checked the pattern sheets before printing, especially seeing there is a printing error in Gerties first book and I’m still not convinced on the sleeve pattern for the shirtwaist dress. I have the second book as well but I haven’t made anything from it yet.
I am going to make the same dress but use the bodice pieces from sew many dresses so as I can do a direct comparison and give you my thoughts on both books.
Birkin Flares – no 5
There isn’t a lot I can say about these Jeans that haven’t already been said, I still love them and they are really comfortable.
No 5 is a little bit different, in that I bought 3 metres of white stretch denim, what is that I hear? you say not white? well it isn’t white any longer I cut in half and dyed one bit purple and the other bit green.
I used the Dylon machine wash dye, no need to add salt, it is all in the packet, you wash the fabric first, check then add the dye then the fabric wash it, wash it again, then run the washing machine with nothing it.
The fabric came out mainly alright, both the green and the purple had some weird spots at one end, luckily because the fabric was so wide, I have been able to cut around them, but I wouldn’t have been very happy other wise.


It is quite weird, the Purple has come out on the photos quite accurately but the green not so much, the green is a vibrant forest/emerald green rather that this wishy washy grey green.
As in most of my starts this year I haven’t got very far….

I decided I wanted pink top stitching, but couldn’t find the exact colour in topstitching thread, but i have seen a few people say that they just doubled up on the normal thread, I think it has come out very nicely.
more soon
This post is brought to you by sewing disasters such as……
A) not pre washing your fabric
B) making a shoddy job of up-sizing a top pattern
I will confess I have some what lost my sewjo this year, after finishing The Dress For Liz, which I had a deadline for I’ve sort of been at a loss, so I have decided to fix a couple of sewing disasters. You might remember this border print dress after I finished it I washed it, apparently I hadn’t washed it before cutting it out doh…to be honest back then I didn’t always pre wash, I’d never had a problem until this dress.

After taking it apart and giving it a good iron I compared the pattern pieces and discovered that each skirt piece (8 in all) have lost 5/8 th of an inch that was a lot of shrinkage, no wonder it no longer fitted
So I have re-cut the skirt luckily I had already decided that I didn’t like the way a the hem looked and I was planning on shortening the skirt anyway, which was just as well as to get the width from the skirt pieces I needed to cut off about 2 inches from the top of them.

Luckily I had enough fabric left over from the original fabric to totally re-cut the bodice, which I have done, I also make the adjustment that I would usually make by taking 3/4 inch out of the bodice.
So far I have but all the darts back in, 2 in each skirt piece and three in the front bodice, unfortunately it is a bit hot at the moment for ironing, but this is England so I’ll just give it a couple of days 🙂
The other dress this one I made a bit of a hash of it, it was too big but because of the cut-out I couldn’t just re-cut the bodice from the original, I had to buy another half metre of fabric.
Out of the new fabric I have cut the front bodice and half of the facings, I’ve used the original back peice and cut that smaller and have cut the front neck facing from fabric left over from the original fabric.
So far I have overlocked the original skirt pieces, done the darts in the bodice and again waiting for the weather to break.
UPDATE
Didn’t manage to get this posted before the weather broke, as I said this is England.
I now have all the pintucks done in the border print dress, and the 8 skirt panels have all been overlocked.
On the other dress I have the bodice put together, it is now waiting for the facings to be put on.
bye for now









